Sunnyside is also great, but got a strong smell which isn’t great for bed I suppose. I don’t think these have ever been treated with anything and was considering trying to use tung oil to even out the color, eliminate the water stains, and hopefully eliminate that slightly dusty look. Thank you for your inquiry, my first recommendation would be to use a Preservative from Osmo this will help prevent mould, mildew and rot. What you found from your research should work. No more shades of pink or honey. You won’t want to use this particular kind for any food preparations surfaces such as butcher block. If different climatic conditions required different oil treatment? Hi this is a great guide! Also may I use the decking stain after using the olive oil treatment? Vegetable oil is similar. Some of the products on our list are well within most budgets and can be used again and again.

The oil helps the application and conditions the wood while the varnish enhances the color and increases durability. While Teak oil delivers a slight sheen, Danish oil leaves a more lustrous finish. I would recommend a test area first as this will ensure firstly that you like the finish that will be achieved and also that there are no issues with application of this particular product. This would not work on a dark wood though as you may see the white. 2) I also have 8 oak veneer doors that had a natural very thin coat x 2 of Ronseal satin varnish applied to protect them, but unfortunately a couple of them have oily handprints on them (my daughter applied some almond oil and didn’t clean her hands before pushing them open without using the handle!). I just happen to have a lot of coconut oil that needs to be used for something anyway; I figure maybe it’s just not used for wood as it’s so expensive?! Can you tell me if these caps are inside the car ? Laminates are often a photo with a plastic seal on it made to look like wood where as a veneer is a slice of the wood and depending on the depth of the veneer may or may not be viable for an oiled finish. I have used Danish oil many times before and haven’t really gotten a glossy look. Do you want an opaque paint like finish or something a little transparent that shows the grain of the wood? I am aware that this is an Australian Hardwood, that can have a slightly greasy feel to it, but I am afraid I know little more than that. You have a few different options for a finish, 1. I would also recommend a test area with the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints to ensure that you are getting the colour that you and your client want. It originally had some varnish or varathane(?) It has a lower odor than other, similar products. These are to create commercial finish samples for contract furniture. Sounds like a great project! Or would I be better off with a different product all together. Would Osmo uv protection oil be a better choice than Danish and Can you apply It over Danish oil treatment or is it best to strip back again. What would you recommend please? You can always come back to me if it doesn’t work and you need more advice. Very thin application is required with this product and a test area is always recommended first to ensure the product works well for your project and that you like the finish that will be achieved. }] Unfortunately, I’m not keen on the high gloss look of varnish. Hi.. firstly may I say what a fabulously informative site this is. You need to use tools of good quality, and keep them well-sharpened and properly maintained to reduce the strain on your wrists and hands. It’s easy to use, and it doesn’t add any color to your piece aside from deepening the color slightly due to conditioning. Again test area is recommended. This has a drying time of approximately eight hours but if you can leave it a little longer before putting back into full use that would allow the oil to cure better. It has a Janka hardness of 4,000N. Sorry I could not be of more help. An interior oil from Osmo is the Polyx Oil. I have some wood that has been coated with Osmo Cedar UV Protection Oil but need it to match the tone of the existing wood more, which is treated with Teak oil. It is a pine desk and the lid has warped. However, it does greatly improve the ability of wood to resist moisture. I’ve just sanded it back as it was wearing in places and so I have a smooth surface again but some areas are clearly more like the original unprotected wood with others clearly still having the Speedstone protection on. If you are looking to stop the silvering effect that the sun will have once you put it outside the you will need an oil with UV protection filters in it. I hope that helps and if you have any more questions please feel free to email us on or give us a call. Hi – excellent blog by the way – we are currently building a holiday cabin and want to leave the rough timber (spruce or larch) beams in the living room exposed. Any Oil applied after this will sit on the surface of the wood and may not dry properly. Other types of high shine finishes include things like shellac and lacquers. As long as there are no instructions from the manufacturers that state you should not use oils, then a Danish Oil would be an ideal product to use on you doors. 3144844442. I am currently researching into an effective sealant for exterior shou sugi ban finished wood. It’s a fast acting stripper that makes the treatment bubble up for scrapping off with a Mako Filler Knife. Fine, Even Grain. I’ve bought iroko kitchen worktops and plan to oil both sides before they are cut and fitted. This oil can be used for any wood, not only teak. We will be doing this one section at a time, thinking that we will go with the wood pattern around the perimeter first. All the best Katie. He is worried that the room will be way to dark if I continue. With clear oils it is a little like applying factor 10 sun cream, more regular top ups are required, to increase the UV protection you can add colour the darker the colour the higher the factor, this of course is not always what customers are looking for when using these types of wood. There are other oils out there too such as danish and teak oil as well as tung oil that just needs a light sanding in between coats. It’s not pure Tung oil, but you should have a better result with the added solvent and varnish without having to refinish a piece completely. If you email me and I can make some suggestions. If they start to look dry or worn, simply apply a thin maintenance coat to restore the appearance and protective properties. No you can not apply varnish over an oil. Hi there, Is that true as well? You can send details to FAO Sam. Thanks for your very informative and helpful website. We are renovating a thirty five year old home that has a variety of wood inside. Boiled linseed oil makes a good sealer sealer. I’m leaning toward Danish oil or Tung oil but already have varnish and polyurethane on hand so I’m just not sure. The cutlery will only touch the plywood. I am sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Osmo would not recommend using another brand over the top of the UV Protection Oil and they do have a Teak Oil that you could look at. Or if you find that its not or you would like to change the finish, you can sand back to bare wood and choose a product such as Fiddes Hard Wax Oil. It’s safe to use indoors and on food prep areas. What this means is that the clear version of Osmo Decking Oil will not provide any added UV protection, but the coloured or pigmented versions will provide varying degrees of UV protection depending on the colour. "text": "In many cases, furniture oil provides a great way to finish the surface of a wooden item. Flaxseed oil is not the best for floors because of no high wear resistance and hard coating. These can between them protect against mould, mildew, rot and decay, UV damage and moisture ingress, so a lot. It has excellent resistance against water, juices, wine, coffee, beer and fizzy drinks. I think Watco Danish Oil is for you. Both tung oil and linseed oil are great to use on wood. It’s clear and dries with a satin finish. Generally these will only work for pale or white water stains but they are worth a go >>> Rub the area with an oily furniture polish, mayonnaise, or petroleum jelly, if this does not work try putting a little toothpaste on a wet cloth and rub the stain gently until the spot disappears. Hind sight of course is that I should have used oil based paint or stain in the first place. What would you suggest for this? I’m sorry to say that it sounds like you have over applied the Oil, when this happens the Oil is unable to soak into the surface of the wood as it is supposed to, and so remains on the surface of the wood creating a film like sticky finish. You may find over time, depending on the environment that they are in that there is some warping, although this could equally not happen, it would be the result of changes of temperature or moisture levels through the year. We live in forest country – no visiting cats here! If you take a look at the decking Oil and feel free to get back to me with any questions that you have. Thanks, },{ And any pointers to determining whether it might be teak or white oak? We have a solid oiled oak ‘engineered'(?) Danish Oil will give a more natural look and feel and reasonable level of protection. I am looking to buy a large antique cherrywood dining table that has been varnished.

Oils should never puddle on your wood surface. Like any other tool, furniture oil isn’t suited for all situations. Boiled linseed oil, on the other hand, ‘only’ takes a day to dry. Hello, I have an oak dresser where some of the top coat (assume it’s varnish or poly) has been worn off from a perfume bottle that leaked onto the top. Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. Anyway, some advice on the matter would be greatly appreciated. We have some hard wood gates that seem to have a coating that can peel off, hence water is seeping in, I would like to remove this coating and just stain and oil them to make it easier in maintaining in future years without having to go to an enormous amount of work. Thank you for bringing this to my attention, I have just been and checked both bottles and they do both state ‘Not recommended for use on Oak’ it is only Barrettine that state this as other brands such as Ronseal are happy for the product to be used on Oak. I have quite a few pieces of G-Plan fresco furniture and I am tempted to restore them as they have a few scratches and slight water marks here and there. Test areas will be the key to getting the effect that you want. And is again easy to maintain over time. In terms of UV protection, it doesn’t contain any added UV filters but as a general rule, the darker a wood product is, the better the UV protection it provides. I ran out of oil after one coat,couldn’t get any more locally but could get some decking oil which I hoped would go on top ok using a brush or rag (cannot find out what oil decking oil consists of?) It’s a synthetic resin that penetrates wood and helps seal it. The drying time will depend on the product you’re using. I’d like to paint / oil / preserve all of the outdoor wood into a darker oak colour, so any advice on what I should be using please ? Lower quality rags can pill and leave those annoying little pieces of fuzz everywhere. They have many layers and I use either wood stains or acrylic water paints. Condensation can cause issues if the wood is not maintained well but the Osmo ranges are very good protective treatments. "acceptedAnswer": { It’s economical and produces a nice finish to your wood.

More expensive options include oil and wax blends with ultra-conditioning properties. There are times when it’s worth using and times when it isn’t.

You will make sure that you’re okay with the tint by doing so. There are several outdoor oils, but I recommend Cabot oil. Your classic hardwood floors. I’m looking for an oil product that I can use on the wood to protect it but will not change the color, staying as close to the natural colors of the wood as possible (giving it that antique farmhouse style charm). Also should I have any concerns about the bathroom area that has excessive condensation build up when using an oil? However, I did ask a second question earlier: Linseed oil is a plain, classic wood oil that brings out the grain finish without changing the natural color of the wood. Unfortunately, after sanding back and applying the first coat of Danish oil, my customer does not like the result as it has heavily emphasised the red grain. Hello and thank you for this informative article! If you have any questions at all please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page. Either way the table has had a bodge varnish job over half of it (I’m guessing the rest is original oil) so I think I will have to sand the set down and start again. With so many types of oil out there, it is indeed difficult to understand everything. If you have any further questions please do let me know. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to let me know. },{ Would I apply the oil to just the damaged areas or over the entire ceiling? I have a cherry cabinet set. This in turn will make the oil appear patchy when applied. This product is also both toxic and combustible. I was also warned never ever use a finish such as varnish, varathane, urethane or any finish that will seal the wood. Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver is a good quality one that works well with the oils. Please do a small test area first.

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